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Now in its thirteenth year, The Ludwig van Beethoven Easter Festival has achieved fame beyond the borders of Poland. Our tour will sample some of the many delights this Warsaw-based Festival has to offer before we venture further afield to visit the world-famous Biebrza marshes and Bialowieza forest, haunt of many wonderful species such as Elk, European Bison, rare woodpeckers, Hazel Grouse, Pygmy Owl, and Nutcracker.
From there we head south to Kraków, the capital of Poland until 1596 and an exquisitely beautiful city – small enough to walk around in twenty minutes and still completely encircled by a broad open area of the former moat, now grass and trees with breeding Fieldfares. Old churches and museums abound and the architecture is endlessly photogenic.
Close by are the beautiful Carpathian Mountains which should still be snow-covered and forming an attractive backdrop to the peat bogs where we shall hopefully watch Black Grouse, Great Grey Shrike, and Rough-legged Buzzard. The music is similarly wide-ranging – not just Beethoven but (in 2008) Brahms, Bruckner, Fauré, Haydn, Mahler, Mozart, Salieri, Schubert, Stravinsky, Webern and Wagner. In addition to the festival offerings we shall be enjoying private concerts and fine singing in a Russian Orthodox church near the Belarus border, plus Vivaldi and Chopin in
Kraków.
NB: The music programme for 2009 has not yet been announced, so the itemised details here refer to the concerts on our last visit.
Day 1: The tour begins with a flight from London to Warsaw, arriving in good time to settle into our hotel and attend (in 2007) a concert performance of Verdi's Otello in the National Opera House.
Day 2: Traditionally, Sunday offers concerts at midday and in the afternoon as well as the evening. In 2007, we enjoyed a recital of Szymanowski songs in the lavish surroundings of the Grand Hall of the Royal Palace, Beethoven string quartets in the Chamber Hall of the Warsaw Philharmonic, and more Beethoven (plus Richard Strauss) in the main concert hall. In the morning we shall bird in several of Warsaw’s city parks for Syrian (and other) Woodpeckers and woodland birds.
Day 3: Most of the day we’ll explore the River Narew marshes near Modlin and the River Bug at Popowo in the hope of finding Whooper and Bewick’s Swans, White-tailed Eagle, and various waders. We’ll have a late lunch at our hotel and then enjoy an afternoon concert (previously the Shanghai Quartet in the Royal Castle playing Haydn’s ‘Sunrise’, Schubert’s ‘Death and the Maiden’, and Beethoven’s ‘Harp’) and an evening concert in the Warsaw Philharmonic Hall (in 2007 Paavo Jarvi conducting Mahler's symphony no 9). Night in Warsaw.
Day 4: A visit to Chopin’s birthplace at Zelazowa Wola should combine birds and music simultaneously as Chopin’s music is relayed to us whilst we study an assortment of finches in the grounds before continuing to the Kampinoski National Park for more woodland birds such as Black Woodpecker. This will be followed by an afternoon concert in the Royal Castle (previously Rudolf Buchbinder, Nelson Goener or Alexander Kobrin playing Beethoven, Chopin or Brahms), and an evening in the Philharmonic Hall (Sinfonietta Cracovia playing Beethoven, Ginastera, and de Falla, St. Petersburg Philharmonic playing Beethoven, Shostakovich, and Prokofiev or Warsaw Philharmonic playing Berlioz's Damnation of Faust). Night in Warsaw.
Day 5: A morning visit to Raszyn fishponds will provide both waterbirds and woodland species maybe ranging from Black-necked Grebe to Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Short-toed Treecreeper and Brambling. Then, after lunch in the hotel, we have an afternoon concert in the castle or in the Polish Radio Concert Studio which previously included Messiaen’s Quartet for the End of Time, Penderecki’s Clarinet Concerto, and Shostakovich’s Trio for violin, cello, and piano, followed by a transfer to the concert hall where previously we have been treated to the Warsaw Philharmonic Orchestra playing Brahms’s second symphony and works by Shostakovich and Lutoslawski. Night in Warsaw.
Day 6: Once more a familiar pattern of birding in the morning with a visit to Laki Kazunski meadows and the Wisea river followed by some city sightseeing and a tour of the Royal Castle then a mid-afternoon main meal at one of Warsaw’s fine restaurants, and an evening concert in the Philharmonic Hall or maybe an opera at the Opera House. Night in Warsaw.
Day 7: Leaving Warsaw we’ll break our journey at Drozdowa Manor House, the home of Lutoslawski, where on our last visits we have enjoyed a private concert by a quartet or chamber group playing Bach, Gluck, Vivaldi, Elgar, Handel, Telemann, Purcell, Corelli, Pachelbel, Wieniawski and, of course, Lutoslawski. After some birding in the grounds (last year a pair of Black Woodpeckers at a nest hole were particularly obliging) we'll continue to the Biebrza marshes where we hope to be greeted by Cranes, Garganey, Bean and White-fronted Geese, and maybe a grazing Elk. Night in Goniadz.
Day 8: After another morning birding in the Biebrza marshes looking for species ranging from Lesser and Greater Spotted Eagles to Penduline Tit to Caspian Tern and Red-necked Grebe, we’ll drive to the Bialowieski forest to look for more woodpeckers and to check into our hotel in time for an optional excursion to look for Pygmy Owls before dinner. Night in Bialowieza.
Day 9: Easter Sunday in the Bialowieski forest is always exciting with, Hazel Grouse, Nutcracker, Lesser Spotted Eagle, Three-toed, White-backed, Black and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, and European Bison all possible. A welcome break during the morning will be magnificent singing in Hajnowka Russian Orthodox church famous for its choirs. Nights in Bialowieza.
Day 10: A final morning in the strictly protected core area of the forest should give us another opportunity to catch up on any species missing so far such as Brambling, Crested Tit or Bohemian Waxwing, before we drive to Kazimierz Dolny, the ‘Pearl of the Polish renaissance’. Night in Kazimierz Dolny.
Day 11: After enjoying the architecture of this attractive town and a spot of birding by the River Vistula where Goosander, Black Stork, Goshawk, Osprey, Oystercatcher, Kingfisher and even Otter have delighted us in the past, we shall drive to Kraków for more history and architecture in the old town and at Wawel castle. Hopefully in the evening we shall enjoy Vivaldi and Mozart in the gilded glitter of one of the beautiful baroque churches. Night in Kraków.
Day 12: Today will be devoted to the Carpathian experience. We'll start at the atmospheric Podczerwome peat-bog where the dramatic snow-clad Tatras form a photogenic backdrop to a Black Grouse lek where we may see Great Grey Shrike, Rough-legged Buzzard, and various harriers. The woodland there could give us a final chance for Crossbill, Firecrest and Crested Tit. Nearby we have a chance of Dipper and Grey Wagtail whilst Chocholow wooden village will transport us back several centuries. We can then continue to the mountain resort of Zakopane (or if we wish into Slovakia) before heading back to Kraków and the magnificent Chopin and Liszt recital in the Fontana chamber of Pod Gruszka 'the most beautiful room in Poland'.
Day 13: Within an hour’s drive (just outside Auschwitz and Birkenau) are Jankowice gravel pits and Spytkowice fishponds offering a feast of wildfowl and waders, including hundreds of Ruff in dramatic breeding plumage, Red-crested Pochard, Garganey, Bittern, Osprey, and Caspian and Yellow-legged Gulls, Penduline Tit, and the first White Storks and other early summer migrants. Then back to Kraków for an evening in the Jewish quarter with lively klezmer music and another meal of fantastic soup, succulent meat, and mouth-watering dessert. Nights in Kraków.
Day 14: A late afternoon flight will allow us to offer the option of personal
sightseeing, shopping, photography and museum visiting in beautiful old Kraków or a visit to the celebrated Wieliczka salt mine (a listed UNESCO monument and the only place in the world where mining has been continuous since the Middle Ages). Then the tour will conclude with a flight from Kraków to Warsaw on to London.
 
In addition to the wonderful birdlife, magnificent mammals such
as Elk and European Bison are a major attraction in Poland.
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'
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Last updated May 2008 |

Poland offers a range of woodpeckers, from the familiar Great Spotted...

to the elusive Three-toed

Nutcrackers can be expected in the Bialowieski forest...

and maybe a roosting Tawny Owl.

Warsaw's
Philharmonic Hall is one of the main venues for a series of exciting
concerts.
Another concert venue is the Royal Palace with its magnificent interiors.
And
in 2004 we enjoyed a private chamber music concert in the home of
Lutoslawski.

The rural
way of life has remained unchanged for centuries...

and
many country houses are topped with the nests of White Storks.
Warsaw was largely rebuilt after World War Two...

but
Krakow is a perfect example of a mediaeval city...

with the largest square in Europe...

and some wonderful shopping opportunities in the market hall.
In the Wieliczka salt mine there are incredible sculptures in salt...

and a wonderful salt chandelier.
Photos by Bryan Bland and Patty Briggs.
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