Ethiopia: the Roof of Africa Friday 31 October to Sunday 16 November 2008
Cost £2580 Maximum group size: 14 participants and 2 leaders. 2 leaders join this tour regardless of group size. |
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| Millions of years ago eastern Africa was subjected to immense and violent volcanic activity. As unimaginable forces pushed the earth’s crust upwards in a gigantic dome, great fissures opened up in the centre causing large areas to sink back while the outer edges continued to rise. The resulting slash in the surface of the planet became the Rift Valley, the geographical feature that dominates this corner of Africa and runs right across Ethiopia. The highland plateaux that formed on either side of the Rift represent the continent’s largest area of Afroalpine habitat and also contain some of the most spectacular scenery in Africa. Isolated for thousands of years, these regions have also seen the evolution of many distinct forms of life. Mammals such as the Giant Mole Rat and the secretive Simien Wolf haunt a stark and beautiful landscape full of strange and unusual plants. Over 800 birds have been seen in the region, of which 29 can be found nowhere else in the world. We hope to encounter many of these endemics as we travel along the Rift Valley floor and across highland areas rightly christened ‘the roof of Africa’. Ethiopia, the point where Africa meets Arabia, sits on a cultural and historical crossroads. The country’s strong connections with the early days of Christianity can be seen from the ancient churches at Lake Tana and Debre Libanos. This combination of history, stunning scenery and above all a fascinating and easily accessible wildlife, makes Ethiopia a perfect destination for a birdwatching holiday. Steve returns there for his tenth Ethiopian tour. Day 1: The tour begins with an overnight flight from London to Addis Ababa. Day 2: After arriving in Addis we’ll begin our tour by driving south down the Rift Valley towards Lake Langano. Straightaway we’ll notice Yellow-billed Kites and White-backed and Hooded Vultures overhead and before long vivid Superb Starlings and White-headed Buffalo Weavers at the roadside. We’ll make a few stops including one at Lake Zwiay where we’ll find a good selection of waterbirds including extremely confiding Great White Pelicans, Hammerkops, Yellow-billed Storks, African Jacanas, African Darter, African Pygmy-goose and Black Crowned Crane. Black Herons are a possibility here as are Lesser Jacanas and Lesser Moorhen and we are sure to be entertained by Northern Carmine Bee-eaters skimming low over the meadows. We’ll reach our lakeside hotel after lunch and spend the rest of the day birding in the hotel grounds – a mix of tall acacias, dense scrub and boulder-strewn slopes. We shall explore these habitats for a variety of birds including endemic Wattled Ibis, Von Der Deckens, Northern Red-billed and Hemprich’s Hornbills, Red-fronted Barbet, Bearded and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Little Rock Thrush, Abyssinian Black Wheatear, Rattling Cisticola, Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, and Rüppell’s Weaver. Freckled Nightjars live on the rocky escarpment and, as dusk approaches, we’ll stay out to look for these and also Greyish Eagle Owl. Night at Lake Langano. Day 3: We’ll spend the morning again exploring the bird-rich grounds of the hotel. This is a great place to see Red-throated Wryneck and, as the morning warms up, Lanner Falcons and Tawny Eagles sail up and down the cliffs, sending the numerous Ethiopian Rock Hyrax scurrying for cover. Leaving Langano we cross over to another Rift Valley lake – Abiata. Although this lake is suffering from water extraction, the lakeshore can still hold good numbers of waterbirds including both Greater and Lesser Flamingos, wintering waders, Common Cranes and occasionally Wattled Cranes. The lawn-like shores are alive with wintering Isabelline Wheatears and are ideal habitat for Temminck’s Coursers while the adjacent acacia woodland is home to Black-billed Woodhoope, Black Scimitarbill,and White-winged Black Tit. Continuing south down the Rift Valley we reach the wooded slopes of Wondo Genet. This popular site is famous for its natural hot springs surrounded by extensive forest and we'll spend the remainder of the afternoon pottering around the lush grounds of the hotel. The roof of the restaurant is a perfect place to relax with a cold beer while scanning the imposing Rift Valley escarpment for soaring raptors which can include Rüppell’s Vultures, Crowned, Verreaux's and Steppe Eagles, and Ayre's Hawk Eagle or peering into the massive fig trees to find Bruce’s Green Pigeon or the endemic Banded Barbet. Night at Wondo Genet.
Day 4: We have all day to explore the woods around Wondo Genet. We'll begin with a pre-breakfast walk down to the hot springs and a search for Half-collared Kingfisher. Noisy Guereza Colobus will be cavorting around the scented jacaranda trees, endemic Yellow-fronted Parrots will scream overhead as they leave their roosts to search for food, and White-cheeked Turacos will be bouncing around the fig trees flashing their crimson wings. Later we'll visit some protected forest which is always alive with Abyssinian Black-headed Orioles and hulking Silvery-cheeked Hornbills. The mature trees also shelter more secretive birds including Narina's Trogon and Tambourine Dove while a rich warbling song may give away the location of African Hill Babbler. A mixed feeding flock may hold Eastern Honeybird and Scaly-throated Honeyguide while another striking feature of this woodland will be the butterflies with the wide trails buzzing with some amazingly colourful and huge specimens. After lunch we'll switch our attention to another area of forest where we hope to see Little Sparrowhawk, beautiful Blue-breasted Bee-eaters, Grey and Red-shouldered Cuckoo-shrikes, Slender-billed and Sharpe's Starlings, and with luck, Scaly Francolin. The day may end once again on the restaurant rooftop scanning for raptors and watching the sun set across the great African Rift. Night at Wondo Genet Day 5: Today’s climb into the Bale Mountains and across the southeast highlands to Goba will take us through some spectacular scenery. Most of the day will be taken up with this journey but there will be time for stops and as we reach the first highland habitat we'll encounter Blue-winged Geese and Yellow-billed Ducks on roadside pools and Red-billed Chough, Abyssinian Longclaw, Red-breasted Wheatears and Thekla larks along the field edges. Night in Goba. Day 6: We have a whole day spend up on the Sanetti Plateau, a wonderful Afro Alpine habitat of pools and small lakes, dense, low flowering bushes and beds of tiny alpine flowers pierced by spikes of Giant Lobelia. Rouget’s Rails are remarkably tame up here and we'll have seen dozens by the end of the day and we are bound to see Chestnut-naped Francolins and Moorland Francolins. Elsewhere we'll encounter Ruddy Shelduck and more Blue-winged Geese on the pools, Spot-breasted Plovers, flocks of Black-headed Siskins and Red-throated Pipits, Alpine Chats, African Snipe, and, with luck, a pair of stately Wattled Cranes. Despite all these avian attractions the star of today’s show may be the elegant Simien Wolf. This endangered canine clings to a fragile existence only here and in the Simien Mountains to the north. Its main prey is the comical Giant Root Rat which is plentiful on the plateau and it is quite common to see wolves actually hunting. Leaving the high moorland behind, we drop down into some good forest and we’ll wander slowly downhill through this searching for Abyssinian Woodpecker, Abyssinian Ground Thrush, Abyssinian Catbird, Abyssinian Slaty Flycatcher, skulking Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, dazzling Tacazze Sunbirds, White-backed Black Tit, Brown-rumped Seedeaters, Mountain Thrush, and Yellow-bellied Waxbill among many others. We may also find the local Bale race of Brown Parisoma, considered by some to be a full species. Night in Goba.
Day 7: Today we retrace our steps back up onto the plateau and follow the highest all-weather road in Africa across the roof of the continent. As we leave the highlands we descend into some rich forest where we’ll have another chance to look for any forest birds missed the day before, as well as seeking some new species such as the tiny Abyssinian Crimsonwing. Our destination is the town of Negelle and we expect to reach there during the late afternoon. Night in Negelle. Day 8: In the early 1890’s a certain Prince Ruspoli collected a stunningly beautiful turaco somewhere in Ethiopia. Unfortunately he died before he could reveal the exact location and it was not until the 1940’s that the world finally came to know where Prince Ruspoli’s Turaco could be seen. This striking bird remains rare and much sought-after, confined to mature acacias and junipers to be found around Negelle and we’ll devote part of today to looking for it. Nearby can be found another endemic, although one nowhere as colourful as the Turaco. Sidamo Long-clawed Lark is yet another bird restricted to a tiny area in Ethiopia and the open grassy plains close to Negelle are a perfect place to find it. We’ll look for this as well as Somali Short-toed Lark and Plain-backed Pipit out on the plains, and other birds in the region could include White-headed Vulture, Black-headed Oriole, and Speke’s Weaver. Night in Negelle. Day 9: Leaving Negelle we embark on a journey that will take us in a wide loop through the south of Ethiopia and to the town of Yabello. There will be lots of stops on the way as we’ll find ourselves in very bird-rich habitats of dense acacia and Commiphora scrub broken by small fields and more open savannah punctuated by towering brick-red termite chimneys. Gangs of Vulturine Guineafowl roam through the scrub and we are guaranteed at least one encounter. This is good bush shrike country and as well as seeing Rosy-patched, Grey-headed and Suplhur-breasted Bush Shrikes, we have a very good chance of finding Red-naped Bush Shrike, a rare species found only in parts of East Africa. Other species with ranges restricted within East Africa that we hope to see are Pringle’s Puffback, Scaly Chatterer, Pygmy Batis and the striking White-crowned Starling. Along the way we’ll be on the lookout for Crested Francolin, Somali Courser, Orange-bellied Parrot, Abyssinian Scimitarbill, gorgeous Golden-breasted Starlings, Shelley’s Starling, Pygmy Batis, Tiny Cisticola, Pale Prinia, Foxy Lark, d’Arnaud’s and Red and Yellow Barbets, Somali Long-billed Crombec, Black-capped Social Weaver, and Marico and Variable Sunbirds. Despite these and many other birds to be found here, the Yabello region is perhaps most well known for two endemic birds that are only found in this tiny part of southern Ethiopia – the bizarre Stresemann’s Bush-Crow and the elegant White-tailed Swallow, both of which we should see before the day is out. In the evening we’ll venture out after dark to look for Greyish Eagle Owl, Donaldson’s Smiths Nightjars and we may also find some cute Somali Galagos clambering energetically through the acacias. Night in Yabello. Day 10: We have a full day to explore the countryside around the town of Yabello. This is a region rich in birds and species we hope to find in the acaia scrub and around the fields tended by the local Borena people include White-bellied Bustard, Eastern Pale Chanting Goshawk, Gabar Goshawk, Bateleur, Bare-eyed thrush, Somali Golden-breasted Bunting, Spotted Morning Thrush, Shelley’s Starling, Banded Parisoma, Boran Cisticola, Purple Grenadier, Straw-tailed Whydah, and Black-cheeked Waxbill. Night in Yabello. Day 11: We’ll leave this morning to drive north to Lake Awassa, arriving in time for lunch. The hotel grounds on the lake shore have a distinct tropical feel and we’ll spend the rest of the day searching the lake edge vegetation for waterbirds such as Black Crake, dashing Malachite Kingfishers, the drab Lesser Swamp Warbler, and Thick-billed Weavers. Small pools along the lake shore are good places to find wintering waders such as Marsh Sandpiper and Temminck’s Stint as well as Hottentot Teal and White-faced Whistling Ducks. The tall grey-barked acacias are the perfect habitat for that most elusive of African birds, the Spotted Creeper and diligent searching should reveal at least one. Elsewhere in this pleasant setting we should find Blue-headed Coucal, the endemic Thick-billed Raven, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Double-toothed Barbet, White-rumped Babbler, Grey-headed Batis and Common Wattle-eye. Night in Awassa. Day 12: After a pre-breakfast wander around the hotel grounds and along the lake shore, we’ll take the Rift Valley road north to the town of Nazaret. There will be stops on the way including one at a lodge where we should see Pygmy Falcon, Slender-tailed Nightjars, Black-billed Woodhoopoe, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrikes, Northern Black Tit and, with luck, Clapperton’s Francolin. Night in Nazaret. Day 13: An early start will take us toward the famous plains of Awash. The evidence of volcanic activity will become very obvious as we approach the extinct Fantale Crater, and we’ll stop at a vast lava flow to look for Chestnut-eared and Chestnut-headed Sparrow-Larks, Desert Lark, Blackstart, the endemic Sombre Chat, Shining Sunbird and House Bunting before crossing the plains to reach our lodge. In the immediate vicinity of the lodge we can find regional specialities such as Yellow-breasted Barbet, Nile Valley Sunbird and Ethiopian Swallow, and we should not have far to go to find at least one Arabian Bustard as this normally rare bird appears to be quite common here. The lodge overlooks a large marsh covered in dense reeds and is regularly quartered by Marsh Harriers and often Collared Pratincoles and flocks of Northern Carmine Bee-eaters hawk for insects. Nearby we’ll search the open scrub for wintering migrants from the north including perhaps Black-eared Wheatears, Rufous Scrub-Robin, Siberian Stonechat, and Barred and Ménétries Warblers and with luck we could encounter a Black Bush Robin. Night at Bilen Lodge. Day 14: The acacia thorn scrub here is remarkably rich in birds and we’ll spend the morning seeking out such species as Buff-crested Bustard, Senegal Thick-knee, Heuglin’s Courser, Lichtenstein’s Sandgrouse, Northern Crombec, Fan-tailed Raven and Steel-blue and Long-tailed Paradise Whydahs. Later we’ll continue to Awash National Park, stopping on the way to view a vast plain where we should see thousands of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse along with a good selection of raptors, including perhaps a Saker, and our only Ostrich of the tour. In the past this region has produced some surprises, including pale Rock Sparrows and Bimaculated Larks. Reaching the Park we’ll spend one night at a tented camp located among some lush woodland right next to the impressive Awash Falls. As dusk descends and the camp fire crackles into life, the distinctive call of African Scops Owl echoes around the camp. Night at Awash campsite. Day 15: Within a few hours of sunrise, Awash Park turns into a shimmering haze of savannah as temperatures soar. This means that the plentiful bird life is most active just after dawn and we’ll make sure we are out before first light to catch all the activity. In the open grasslands we’ll look for Secretary Bird, Hartlaubs and Kori Bustards, Red-winged and Singing Bush Larks, Ashy Cisticola, Somali Fiscal and Southern Grey Shrike. In the denser areas of bushes we may find Gillet’s Lark, Red-fronted Warbler, Green-winged Pytilia, and Grey Wren Warbler, while raptors vary from the tiny Pygmy Falcon to the massive Lappet-faced Vulture. This is also a good place for mammals and with luck we should find Beisa Oryx, Soemmering’s Gazelle and Swayne’s Hartebeest before we return to Addis for one night. Day 16: Today we drive north across the Solulta Plain to Debre Libanos. On the Solulta Plains the endemic White-collared Pigeon is incredibly common and we’ll also search for the endemic Blanford’s Lark as well seeking out the few pairs of Red-chested Swallows that breed here. Debre Libanos is an important monastic centre for the Orthodox Church, where the 13th century monk and mystic, Telehaimanot, is reputed to have stood on one leg for seven years. There will be no such hardships for us as we search this spectacular location on the edge of a massive gorge for Lammergeier, Rüppell’s Griffon Vulture, Verreaux’s Eagle, Erckel’s Francolin, the endemic Black-winged Lovebird, Rüppell’s Chat, White-winged Cliff Chat and White-billed Starling as well as Long-billed Pipit, and Cinnamon-chested Rock Bunting. The open fields of the plain are a great place to see a variety of birds from Black-winged Plovers to Groundscraper Thrushes while any small stream will attract wintering Ortolan Buntings down to drink. Night in Addis. Day 17: We’ll transfer to the airport in time for our flight back to London where the tour ends later the same day. Note: For those wishing to stay out in Ethiopia and visit some of the cultural and historical sites in the north of the country, such as the rock-hewn churches at Lalibella, we can arrange a post-tour extension either with or without a local guide. Please contact the Sunbird office for details. E-mail or phone +44 (0)1767 262522 for availability.
Last updated March 2008.
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Photographs taken on recent Sunbird Ethiopia tours by Sam Alexander, Steve Chalmers, Steve Matherly and Steve Rooke.
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Map
Our first stop is at Lake Zwiay where we may see Black Herons fishing.
Little Rock Thrush can be found in the grounds of our lodge at Lake Langano. 
Which also has a resident pair of Verreaux's Eagles. 
Huge Silvery-cheeked Hornbills are common around our next hotel at Awassa. 
Moving south to Yabello we encounter the endemic Stresemann's Bush Crow. 
While other birds we see here include White-crowned Starling.
Next comes the Bale Mountains where a few pairs of Wattled Cranes breed. 
the endemic Spot-breasted Plover.
...the rare endemic Abyssinian Woodpecker.
An Arabian Bustard and...
Yellow-breasted Barbet at Awash. 
While an endemic Gelada Baboon watched on.