KENYA - from Tsavo to the Maasai Mara

“With two weeks of birding time, this Central Kenyan tour may have been thought to have it's limitations but the members were to find that in this country of endless wonder, new birds were still appearing as we closed on Nairobi the final afternoon. An amazing 596 species of birds were recorded, of which a paltry total of nine species were heard only, so 587 forms were seen by members of this fortunate group. These totals included all eight Storks, six Bustards, fifty-one Birds of Prey, all ten Kenyan Hornbills, fifteen Barbets, nine Owls, seven Nightjars, eighteen each of Cisticolas, Sunbirds and Starlings and seventeen Ploceus Weavers. Together with 63 identified mammals excluding a few unidentified Bat and two rodents, and 28 reptiles and amphibians. A whole host of butterflies and dragonflies, as well as the fascinating botanical fauna were pointed out, but the whole was just too much to take everything in!

All of this experienced in the seclusion of luxurious lodges deep in the heart of prime birding country, offering not only the comfort but the finest food that anyone could hope to find in the wilds of any country on this planet. Still the superlatives come, the most scenic, the friendliest people, the easiest place to see birds and wildlife, the most comfortable of climates imaginable, all were uttered by the participants on this trip. The negative publicity issued by ill-informed government officials were defied by the participants and in Kenya they found the most peaceful of nations ready to welcome them, and make them feel at home.

Arriving close to schedule, the group was transferred to their Nairobi base for a short rest, before heading off to Nairobi National Park with a picnic for their first introduction to East African birding. Colourful jewels such as Variable and Scarlet-chested Sunbirds, Speke’s Weaver and Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, a Paradise Flycatcher in the car park, and comical Speckled Mousebirds were found outside the Park Entrance.

Once inside the Park seeing ponderous Black Rhinos, stately Maasai Giraffes and grassy horizons dotted with gazelles and ostriches, reminded the group where they were. One group member had over a hundred new species on this first day, and had no idea that things were just only going to get better! Following this full day, a very tasty meal capped the promise of a good nights rest.

Departing Nairobi we left for our lengthy drive to Tsavo West National Park. Our first stop was a pleasant walk at the foot of the Lukenya Hills east of Nairobi. Many species were encountered here, the mixture of highland and lowland forms resulted in the strange sight of Bare-eyed Thrush and Golden-winged Sunbird in the same group of bushes. Stately Verreaux’s Eagles patrolled the rocky crags for luckless Hyrax. Lunch at Hunter’s Lodge was a series of constant interruptions as kingfishers of four species, and weavers including the dazzling Golden-Palm made their appearances. We encountered a large variety of species on entering the gates of Tsavo West, as we neared Ngulia and as evening fell considerable numbers of Nightjars lined the road, and we were able to get very good views of five species. After dinner we retired to bed and rested readying ourselves for the excitements of the next day.

There had been a fall of migrants with many Warblers feeding in the bushes attracted by the lights that had been burning all night. After breakfast we set off down the escarpment into the thorn scrub below. The rains had not been kind and the area was very arid with many bushes leafless. The morning heralded countless species of birds, but the star performer was a showy Red-naped Bush-Shrike, a species that is so rarely seen let alone photographed. The bush was quite quiet and very dry, but with persistence the bird tally continued to mount throughout the days activity. We revisited the area again in the afternoon and had a welcome short shower, which brought numbers of Vulturine Guineafowl out onto the road.

The next morning after breakfast we left Tsavo heading westwards to Amboseli. Just before joining the main road we stopped at a small wood and found Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Grey-olive Greenbul and Lead-coloured Flycatcher. Entering Amboseli we encountered a variety of birds finally arriving at the luxurious Tortilis.

Our full day in Amboseli was a magical experience, Mount Kilimanjaro favoured us by remaining uncovered all day, and made wonderful backdrops for photographs. Highlights for the day included a large Rock Python lazing on a muddy island, and prostrate Lions using lava pillows.

The swamps had a good variety of water birds such as the worlds largest heron, the Goliath Heron, noisy and attractive African Fish-Eagles yodelling from the remnant trees adjacent to the water, Two-banded Coursers piping from the barren dusty landscape, Malachite Kingfishers waiting patiently on papyrus stems and White-headed Buffalo-Weavers launching clumsily to reveal their red rumps, prompting a "what on earth was that?" response from the fast overwhelmed participants. Amongst the mammals we were also treated to Hippos, Elephants, and Giraffe. After a sumptuous meal we ventured out again in the afternoon seeing African Jacanas skittering over the floating vegetation, coaxed Crowned Cranes responding with a quick two-step, and watching the sun set through the lattice of acacia branches, clothing them in a rosy hue, before the mountain itself became draped in a misty gloom and darkness rapidly ensued.

Because of the Constitutional referendum it had been decided that instead of driving north through Nairobi to Thika for the night, we would avoid these major centers and fly direct to Nanyuki for Mountain Lodge for two nights.

A magnificent Long-legged Buzzard was quartering a field near the airstrip, and on arrival at Mountain Lodge we were treated to a delicious meal. In the afternoon we went birding on the roof, mammals such as Buffalo and Bushbuck came and went, along with smaller forest inhabitants like Suni and three Mongoose species. The variety of birds kept the group entertained, numbers of impressive Silver-cheeked Hornbills honked from the trees and the seed-eating Baglafecht Weavers gorged themselves on the meat from the turkey-neck on the bird-table! In the evening there were a pair of Verreaux’s Eagle-Owls patrolling the edge of the pond. The rarest of species recorded were a Mottled Spinetail, and a pair of magnificent Cuckoo-Hawks.

With the extra day we drove up Mt. Kenya to the Meteorological Station at 10,000 feet. Here we saw numerous Jackson’s Francolins, very attractive Abyssinian Ground-Thrushes and Hill Chats all coming to handouts supplied by the guard who looks after the cabins. These species have all become ridiculously tame as a result. The group was shown a whole host of sub-alpine plants that were in the same genera familiar to them. The late afternoon we were back on the rooftop finding a few more new species, remaining until dark, when the nocturnal mammals put in their appearances.

The next morning revealed that there had been a fall of migrants, and numerous Marsh Warblers and Whitethroats were hunting insects around the lights, with ten other migrant species in lesser numbers. We departed at a slow pace finding many new species along the roadside including Crowned Eagles around their nest, the ground scattered with numerous Hyrax skulls. Another highlight crawling on the ground amongst these was the rarely recorded endemic Mt. Kenya Hornless Chameleon. Further down the road was a trio of Narina Trogons, Hartlaub’s Turacos were a prominent feature and Montane Orioles yodelled from the canopy. Finally arriving for lunch at Naro Moru River lodge, we had a short rest before driving along the road bisecting Solio Ranch. Numerous mammals were evident, including Beisa Oryx, Jackson’s Hartebeeste and Golden Jackal.

Wheatears were in hundreds with a sprinkling of Whinchats and other migrants. Amongst the Lesser Kestrel flocks were small numbers of very attractive Amur Falcons.

We drove the same road the next morning, highlight was a stunning Denham’s Bustard standing in the middle of the road, this was one of four bustard species seen along this road that morning. Amazing Yellow Wagtail numbers probably exceeded a thousand the falcons had been joined by several other congeneric brothers including Peregrine and Sooty Falcon. Our next stop was for Elementeita Rock Agamas, a very local species, and nearby we visited Mackinder’s Eagle-Owl and African Black Ducks. After a tasty picnic lunch in a Podocarpus Forest we looked at a nearby swampy lagoon finding an eventually extravert African Water Rail, and displaying Levaillant’s Cisticolas. Thomson’s Falls produced Slender-billed Starlings bathing in the water tumbling over the vertical walls - a strange angle to be taking a bath. At Nakuru we had a vehicle change, then continued on our way to Baringo.

In the morning we scoured the lodge grounds discovering Red-and-Yellow Barbets, obliging Grey-backed Fiscals and the immense footprints of Hippos outside of our rooms, although the recent wet season had produced a good food supply and they were grazing elsewhere. Continuing to the lakeshore, we could see that the floods experienced a couple of months earlier had brought the level right up to the jetty. The sedges abounded in mixed Weavers in their breeding attires whilst a few non-plumaged Northern Red Bishops fed quietly in the inundated grasses alongside the jetty.

Breakfast was a continuous interruption as a swathe of birds descended on the bird-table, Jackson's Hornbills were the largest but the least aggressive of the diners, five species of yellow weavers were having a free for all, whilst the starlings added an extra splash of colour.

After breakfast we patrolled the nearby cliffs for and finding Hemprich's Hornbill, watchful White-faced Scops Owls, teetering Brown-tailed and bouncy Cliff Chats. With local assistance of the resident Williams's we were able to appreciate Greyish Eagle-Owl, Heuglin's Courser and Plain Nightjar all at their daytime retreats. A search for Eurasian Hoopoe in thorn scrub near the airstrip was not only successful for that species but six other new species for the tour as we went speeding past the 500 mark in under eight days. A walk along the shore after lunch provided a selection of waterside species, including numerous Red-throated Pipits and four White Storks. In the afternoon we departed for Nakuru National Park where a flat tyre was compensated with a most attractive pair of Silverbirds.

Mere words cannot convey the magical spectacle of Nakurus Lesser Flamingos in the first rays of sunlight heralding the new day, but the huge gatherings of other waterbirds are none the less impressive! The hours seemed to speed by as we tried to comprehend the immense biomass of birdlife stretching out before us. At one stop we found three rare herons inland, a Black Heron rested amongst the White Pelicans, a Western Reef Heron was discovered along a small marsh pool and a Dimorphic Egret stood by a busy lagoon, with a wonderful concentration of waders. Some settling ponds attracted over two thousand Northern Shovelers and our only Black-headed Gull. Amongst a huge gathering of Steppe Eagles we found two Great Spotted Eagles. Amongst the woodland birds we located Grey-crested Helmet-shrikes, nesting Eurasian Hoopoes of the race senegalensis, and not so far away nesting African Hoopoes.

Our final new destination was the incomparable Maasai Mara, a day of travelling, but punctuated with roadside stops for a few more forest species such as White-browed Crombec, Grey Cuckoo-shrike and Black-throated Wattle-eye. Butterflies were putting on a splendid show on this beautiful sunny morning. A lunch stop in Kericho gave us a taste of the west in the form of Yellow-spotted Barbet, Mackinnon's Fiscal and Snowy-headed Robin-Chat.

A swamp en route produced a male Yellow-backed Weaver, very unexpected and out of its normal distibution.

Descending the last few kilometres into the Maasai Mara, we arrived, somewhat dusty at Kichwa Tembo and were soon ridding ourselves of the day’s grime in well-appointed and comfortable surroundings and a delicious meal soon followed.

We had an early morning drive prior to our picnic breakfast on the top of the scenic Oloololo Escarpment. The morning was cool and birds were loathed to become active, a beautiful Ovampo Sparrowhawk posed on a roadside tree as we drove the road, climbing the escarpment. With some effort the areas specialities were found, and a walk along the edge of the escarpment provided a stunning view overlooking the Maasai Mara and the winding Mara River far below us. As near a perfect venue for a picnic breakfast as one could imagine. As the sun warmed the area, we found several species of local specialities within a matter of minutes, including an unprecedented five territories of Red-throated Wrynecks. After a sumptuous lunch we spent the afternoon at Musiara Swamp easily finding Rufous-bellied Herons and Saddle-billed Storks. The next day we had a rewarding morning in the camp with both Ross’s and Schalow’s Turacos, Double-toothed Barbets and indescribably beautiful Violet-backed Starlings a few metres away feeding on the lawn in the morning sunlight. After breakfast we headed south finding a couple of Cheetahs as well as our first Southern Ground-Hornbills. In the afternoon we returned up the escarpment, then searched for and successfully found Mountain Reedbuck and Klipspringers on the steep boulder-strewn slopes.

Our last morning we located numerous new species, amongst them Senegal Plover in the thorn scrub, Red-chested Swallows on the plains and when we appeared to be in the middle of nowhere, with endless views across barren plains in all directions. One of the cars ceased to function. Local knowledge of the area, knew that by driving over a ridge four kilometres away we would find a well hidden camp and a chance of spares in their garage, and our part awaited us. After finding a very nice Narina Trogon and less impressive Swahili Sparrows we were on our way again.

In the eastern valleys we caught up with Magpie Shrikes, Buff-bellied Penduline-Tits and Tabora Cisticolas, but the rarest find was a Bush Pipit, which fed just in front of the vehicles. Our second flat tyre along the road was providential for placing us next to a bush with an Icterine Warbler in it. Our final meal at the Carnivore was a rushed affair as we had lost quite a bit of time with our vehicular problems, nevertheless this toasted the end of a very successful bird tour, difficult to absorb all that we had seen in a mere two weeks covering a small part of the world's birdiest of countries known as Kenya.” Brian Finch

BIRD LIST

This is a list of all the species seen during the last five Kenya tours which have taken place in November.

Column A = Number of tours on which this species has been recorded.

Column B = Number of days this species was seen on the last tour.

Column C = Maximum daily count for this species on the last tour.

H = Heard only

A                                           B C

5	Common Ostrich	7	100	Struthio camelus
2	Somali Ostrich			Struthio molybdophanes
5	Little Grebe	3	2000	Tachybaptus ruficollis
3	Black-necked Grebe	1	1	Podiceps nigricollis
2	Great Crested Grebe			Podiceps cristatus
5	Great Cormorant	3	30	Phalacrocorax carbo
5	Long-tailed Cormorant	3	15	Phalacrocorax africanus
3	African Darter			Anhinga rufa
5	Great White Pelican	3	25000	Pelecanus onocrotalus
4	Pink-backed Pelican			Pelecanus rufescens
5	Black-crowned Night-Heron	1	1	Nycticorax nycticorax
5	Squacco Heron	4	200	Ardeola ralloides
1	Madagascar Squacco Heron			Ardeola idae
5	Rufous-bellied Heron	1	10	Ardeola rufiventris
5	Cattle Egret	13	200	Bubulcus ibis
4	Striated Heron	2	1	Butorides striatus
4	Black Heron	1	1	Egretta ardesiaca
5	Little Egret	5	75	Egretta garzetta
3	Dimorphic Egret	1	4	Egretta dimorpha
1	Western Reef Heron	2	1	Egretta gularis
5	Yellow-billed (Intermediate) Egret	6	30	Mesophoyx intermedia
5	Great Egret	6	30	Casmerodius albus
5	Grey Heron	9	50	Ardea cinerea
4	Purple Heron	4	1	Ardea purpurea
5	Black-headed Heron	9	12	Ardea melanocephala
5	Goliath Heron	1	1	Ardea goliath
5	Hamerkop	7	3	Scopus umbretta
5	Yellow-billed Stork	7	100	Mycteria ibis
5	African Open-billed Stork	1	25	Anastomus lamelligerus
5	Black Stork	1	1	Ciconia nigra
4	Abdim's Stork	2	2	Ciconia abdimii
5	Woolly-necked Stork	1	2	Ciconia episcopus
5	White Stork	2	50	Ciconia ciconia
5	Saddle-billed Stork	4	2	Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
5	Marabou Stork	13	60	Leptoptilus crumeniferus
5	Sacred Ibis	10	100	Threskiornis aethiopicus
5	Hadada Ibis	14	25	Bostrychia hagedash
5	Glossy Ibis	5	150	Plegadis falcinellus
2	African Green Ibis			Bostrychia olivacea
4	African Spoonbill	6	75	Platalea alba
5	Greater Flamingo	2	250	Phoenicopterus ruber
5	Lesser Flamingo	2	1000000	Phoenicopterus minor
1	Fulvous Whistling Duck			Dendrocygna bicolor
5	White-faced Whistling Duck	3	20	Dendrocygna viduata
3	White-backed Duck			Thalassornis leuconotus
5	Egyptian Goose	14	200	Alopochen aegyptiacus
5	Spur-winged Goose	1	2	Plectopterus gambensis
4	Knob-billed Duck (Goose)			Sarkidiornis melanotos
4	African Black Duck	1	1	Anas sparsa
5	Yellow-billed Duck	1	8	Anas undulta
3	Cape Teal (Wigeon)	2	3	Anas capensis
2	Common Teal			Anas crecca
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