UGANDA 2005

“This was the first Sunbird Tour of Uganda since 2003, all agreed that it was a magically beautiful and captivating country, far exceeding any literature that the participants had read. A drought had affected the region, and the wet-season rainfall was below normal, with dry leaves crackling underfoot in the normally moist forest, and the savannah already burnt. The birds were difficult, most had already bred and were busy feeding young (not always a disadvantage with species like African Green Broadbill being pinned down) and the normally reverberant rainforests were uncharacteristically quiet and with little vocalisation there was an almost zero response to any tape playback. This meant that much of the birding had to be visual although many species called enough to announce that they were still in the area!

During our nineteen days in the country we still manage to record an impressive 553 species, nearly all species resident, as the palearctic migrants so numerous towards the end of the year, do not boost the overall totals. The 43 species of mammals identified included wonderful experiences with Gorillas and Chimpanzees as well as nine other primate species. During the periods of bird inactivity, butterflies were shown to the group, most of the inconspicuous blues and skippers were passed by, we recorded 192 species containing some of the world’s most beautiful insects. As the group showed interests in other branches of natural history, all of these are listed. The combination made this tour a very varied and thorough experience. Capped with the friendliest of people encountered throughout the adventure, Uganda showed itself as something very special.

The weather was cool to mild throughout, the only hot days being in Murchison Falls National Park, overcast conditions that prevailed in the mornings kept the climate comfortable, a great contrast to the remainder of the year, when hot and humid is the order of the day. Nevertheless we had our share of sunshine, breathtaking vistas, comfortable accommodation and good food.

Soon after arrival the tour started in the nearby Entebbe Botanical Gardens, here such impressive species as yodelling Fish-Eagles, raucous Black-and-White Casqued Hornbills and fluorescent azure Woodland Kingfisher were seen, with flaming Orange Weavers nesting along the shoreline. With a picnic lunch we were soon on our way to Masindi in our landcruiser, with Ben, our very capable driver and more than competent birding companion throughout the tour. Brief stops revealed gorgeous crimson and black Black-headed Gonoleks and nasal Marsh Widowbirds. Nearer to Masindi we found guttural Yellow-billed Shrike, Bruce's Green Pigeon flying over and colourful African Golden Oriole, probably a visitor from the southern part of the continent. In the evening we were treated to a magical experience with full-plumaged Pennant-winged Nightjars dancing in the air all around us.

The next morning we arrived early in the Budongo Forest to find it teeming with rain, believing this to be the order for much of the trip, little were we to know then that we would not be hampered by rain throughout the remainder of the tour. By 09.00 the weather improved and the sun made an appearance, forest species were found, amongst them Blue-throated Roller, Dwarf Kingfisher, Yellow-browed Camaroptera and Chestnut-capped Flycatcher plus the specialities Ituri Batis and Yellow-bellied Crombec.

In the evening we visited a nearby private ranch looking for and successfully finding Shining-blue Kingfisher. We visited the attractive Royal Mile the following day, getting exceptional views of Forest Robin, and tempted Nahan's Francolin into view. In the neighbouring gardens we found an extravert Grey-headed Oliveback and some obliging Marsh Tchagras.

Leaving early next morning we took the road towards Murchison Falls National Park, roadside birding provided Eastern Grey Plantain-eaters and Whistling Cisticolas. At Kaniyo Pabidi we easily located Puvel’s Illadopsis and after dropping off our luggage we visited the impressive “Top of the Falls” where the Nile River is forced to plummet over a thirty metre gap into the broiling waters below. On the way we discovered a party of three White-fronted Black Chats associating with lookalike Sooty Chats and several other species at a sand-bathing ritual. At the Falls we witnessed the emergence of the bats roosting in a hidden cave and a Bat Hawk put in a late appearance. Driving back from the Falls, we had exceptional close encounters with Long-tailed and Pennant-winged Nightjars, plus several Bunyoro Rabbits which now have to live with the mundane name Uganda Grass Hare!

The following morning we drove to the river at Paraa, seeing Vinaceous and Black-billed Wood Doves, and Senegal Coucals but we were anxious to get on the river for our trip down towards the Albert Delta. For most, the Shoebill was the star of the boat-ride, but the rarest find was a Southern Carmine Bee-eater associating with two Northern Carmine Bee-eaters. This gem was only the second record for Uganda, the first being on the previous Sunbird trip in 2003, also at Murchison Falls, when two birds were discovered. This bird was photographed, as were the birds on the original find. The papyrus specialities were very loath to reveal themselves, but the Hippos put on a fine display all along the river.

Lunch by the river was interrupted by Red-winged Grey Warblers, and hopeful Olive Baboons, and after our picnic we drove out towards the savannah. Many mammals were found in a recently burned valley - several Rothschild's Giraffes, numerous Uganda Kob, Jackson's Hartebeeste and Oribi. Here we found stately Abyssinian Ground-Hornbills, miniscule African Penduline-Tits and perhaps the most interesting Shelley's Sparrows, a recent split from the very different looking Rufous Sparrow well to the east.

The next day we walked around the area near our lodge, with a guard. It was difficult to see who was protecting who, as our intrepid escort kept to the back of the line but was always ready to defend with his stick! Birding was difficult, but we managed to locate a few niceties like Green-backed Eremomela and Cabanis's Bunting. The afternoon was spent on the launch to the foot of the Falls, and during these three exhilarating hours we glided past ponderous Elephants, behemoth Crocodiles and rainbow-hued Red-throated Bee-eaters. A pair of Red-necked Falcons rested in a Borassus Palm, a Finfoot remained on its riverside boulder as we chugged by, and a Rock Pratincole refused to be intimidated by our arrival at its private island.

An early departure saw the group leaving Murchison and driving parallel with Lake Albert towards the escarpment overlooking Butiaba. On the way stops produced Red-headed Lovebirds, Little Sparrowhawk and fluorescent red bumblebee Northern Red Bishops, a hue far removed from Orange as some authors christen this species. On the escarpment a search produced the dainty Foxy Cisticola, fiery-winged Red-shouldered Cuckooshrike and a fly by Black Scimitarbill. Continuing our journey to Kibale, there was little stopping along this lengthy and extremely dusty portion of our tour.

The next morning we were on a Chimpanzee trek, but it was an eleventh-hour find, the birds were disappointingly quiet, trogons hooted but kept to cover, greenbuls clung to the densest of cover and turacos could have just as easily have been another tour group playing tapes, for the responses we got! Patience secured views of a Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoo, a prospecting party of Narrow-tailed Starlings and a quietly feeding Brown-eared Woodpecker. After lunch we visited the nearby wetlands protected by resident landowners that realise the benefits of eco-tourism, and have left the area intact. Here some birds have become very confiding, Snowy-headed Robin-Chats refused to leave the path, Blue Flycatchers danced in the eucalypts in the garden areas and Papyrus Gonoleks grudgingly investigated us when called to. Red Colobus and Grey-cheeked Mangabys were quite indifferent to our presence as we followed the perimeter of the entire protected area.

The following day we left the lower forest for higher elevations by the roadside. The birds were numerous and not too secretive, this producing such desired species as Many-coloured Bush-Shrike, Joyful Greenbul, Masked Apalis and the very dark (compared to the East) Scarce Swifts. In the afternoon we arrived at Mwea in Queen Elizabeth National Park. Our investigations before checking in were most rewarding and we found ten Brown-chested Plovers on a recently burnt area, the many Buttonquail examined finally rewarded us with the rare Black-rumped species, White-tailed Larks fluttered over the grasslands and parties of Black-chinned Quail-finch passed overhead without showing any signs of stopping. Stately and confiding Saddle-billed Storks searched diligently for frogs, and the short grass plains were littered with Common Pratincoles. Regulations here have become very strict and the penalties for being out of the fenced lodge area after dark (when the nightjars are abroad) is now extreme, and we had to comply for the two nights we were there. We did locate some Giant Forest Hogs at dusk however.

Next morning we drove amongst the craters, here we induced a Pearl-spotted Owlet into view and found good-plumaged Black Coucals and diminutive Wing-snapping Cisticolas.

That afternoon we had our final water excursion and this was on the Kazinga Channel, a natural canal-like passage that links Lakes George and Edward. It was an amazing experience to be on the boat surrounded by the 135 Skimmers wheeling gracefully below us, Water Dikkops blinked at us from the banks, Elephants and Hippos allowed close approach, numerous heron species fished in the shallows, and the abundant Pied Kingfishers chitted in excited flocks overhead.

Leaving Mwea the next morning we saw African Crakes searching the roadside, a very out of season Honey Buzzard and a large flock of dapper Banded Martins skimming the grass tops. The road via Ishasha was quite well populated, and amongst the mixed parties, our first Double-toothed Barbets put in an appearance. The Gorilla Camp at Buhoma, made us very welcome, and the hot baths open to the surrounding woodland ridded the dust we had accumulated during the days drive.

We had our breakfast as the birds woke up, and set off for our Gorilla-trekking experience. The Guide gave us our briefing on how to behave in front of the revered gentle giants, and after selecting our walking sticks off we went. We were fortunate as this was not a difficult climb, our hour spent in a one-sided interaction with our alotted family cannot be put into mere words, and it was an almost tearful parting when we had to leave the group to spend the afternoon with only themselves for company. Being exposed to the presence of humans every day of the year, they must wonder why we go off to roost so early in the day, as they see us trundle off back the way we had come!

Whilst the first day is for the Gorillas, the second full day at Buhoma is strictly for the birds. With Alfred as our local guide, we followed the gentle path in the forested valley, having much recovered from the ordeal of the previous day. Many of the species were Albertine endemics, and amongst these we found Red-throated Alethe, Mountain Masked Apalis, Red-faced Woodland Warbler, Blue-headed Sunbird and Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher. The Short-tailed Warbler was a tease for most of the group, but the other local prizes such as White-bellied Robin-Chat, Chapin's Flycatcher and Willcox's Honeyguide were very co-operative. Alfred most impressively whistled in a Barred Long-tailed Cuckoo, which performed extrovertly, and as the day wore to a close it was back to that wonderful bath!

Leaving the lowlands we paid a visit to another eco-friendly local, who was also benefiting from the birders visiting his land, as of course were the indifferent pair of Bat Hawks, the inquisitive Red-chested Flufftail and the indigent Mackinnon's Fiscals scolding from the bordering shrubbery, all of which the group enjoyed here. Nearby we teased a pair of Red-throated Wrynecks, which posed as if transfixed, and then it was time to start our climb to the upper elevations of this region. At the "Neck" we paused for our lunch break, finding a watchful Black Bee-eater, finally revealing Red-tailed Greenbul and sprightly Cassin's Grey Flycatcher. Further climbing we stopped at the roadside, calling in Dusky Twinspot for all to admire at close quarters, Western Green Tinkerbird even closer and Chestnut-throated Apalis closer still. Also here the group was treated to Doherty's Bush-Shrike, Collared Apalis and Black-headed Waxbills.

Our accommodation at Ruhija, in spite of being more rustic was voted as the best accommodation of the trip by some, the people at Gorilla Camp had pulled out all stops to ensure that we were comfortable and we were. An evening perambulation was most rewarding with outrageous open views of Grauer's Warbler, angry Stripe-breasted Tits and secretive Strange Weaver. A pleasant surprise was the appearance of an Oriole Finch, and equally charming were the antics of a troop of l'Hoest's Monkeys.

The descent to the Mubwindi Swamp makes for a fairly arduous day, and then there is always the ascent that has to follow back to the 8000 foot level of the roadhead. After a tasty breakfast we embarked on this, with porters, guards, our walking sticks cut to size on the spot, and of course Alfred who is quintessential for any birder visiting the Bwindi-Impenetrable. Little was actually found on the descent, the strong winds kept birds in cover, but Rwenzori Batis and Mountain Yellow Warblers did put in an appearance. The highlight of this expedition (if not the tour) was a pair of African Green Broadbills at their nest containing two young. This was being monitored by a Uganda researcher, who was taking copious notes throughout daylight hours, except for an hour for lunch when there must have been a mutual arrangement with the birds that all activity should cease! It is very encouraging to see the enthusiasm of the local birders, for it is in their hands only that the future of this and many other species rests. The Grauer's Rush Warblers were reticent but finally capitulated, but the Archer's Robin-Chat put on a splendid show, believing itself to be well concealed by cover.

Sadly we had to farewell our crew after breakfast the following morning, we walked out of the forest towards entrance gate. It was a beautiful sunny morning and we saw many birds along the way, but sadly the few we were still searching for were not to be amongst this number. So little called, but the scenery and the company made it all worth the effort. The contrast of the forest alongside the gardened edge is spectacular if not alarming, as one realises how easily this forest could have been cleared in the past, and lost forever. But equally appreciate the pressures that are still on this delicate environment. We passed through Kabale pausing to successfully locate a showy White-winged Warber in a fast disappearing patch of papyrus, and drawing out a pair of African Water Rails at another marshy area.

Lake Mburu is quite unlike any other of the National Parks we visited; it has Common Zebra, Impala and Topi for a start. The fairly dry lakeside savannah peppered with emergent Euphorbias, provides a habitat unique to the country. Consequently the group was happy to find some of the local specialities widespread elsewhere, Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, Lilac-breasted Roller, Bare-faced Go Away Bird, and the not so widespread Tabora Cisticola. There were a host of other savannah species, many of which were coaxed in with the appearance of a Pearl-spotted Owlet, with an entourage of some twenty species livid at its presence. Almost express to Kampala with a brief stop at a Forest Reserve where we found a frantically busy flock of 150 Weyn's Weavers and our first Pied Hornbills. Ben expertly deviated around the notorious Kapala traffic jams, and we arrived at Jinja earlier than expected.

Mabira Forest was to be our final birding destination; a fairly bright morning was heralded by a good variety of birds gathering in the canopy trees. This provided not only new species for the tour, but enabled good views for members who had up to now only had the scantest of sightings of some species. Our full day there rewarded us with wonderful views of White-spotted Flufftail, a trio of Forest Wood-Hoopoes, reeling Grey Longbills, pulsating Sooty Boubous and adventures with Safari Ants when teased into the forest by warp-humoured Green-tailed Bristlebills!

Our final morning was all too short, the overcast and at times wet conditions kept the birds quiet, but an Emerald Cuckoo was having a fine time decimating a tent of caterpillars, a pair of Sooty Flycatchers were uncommon here, and a Mackinnon's Fiscal on the forest edge (normally a highland species) was most unexpected. The return to Entebbe was smooth with traffic jams once again circumnavigated, leaving ample time for packing and relaxing, and the airport procedures expedient and uneventful - not often one can say this nowadays!” Brian Finch

Bird List:

This is a list of all the species seen during the last two tours to Uganda.

Column 1 = number of days recorded
Column 2 = greatest daily total

NL = Non-leader

H = Heard only

L = leader only

Little Grebe	1	1	nl	Tachybaptus ruficollis
White Pelican	4	75		Pelecanus onocrotalus
Pink-backed Pelican	8	40		Pelecanus rufescens
Greater Cormorant	5	400		Phalacrocorax carbo
Long-tailed Cormorant	3	8		Phalacrocorax africanus
African Darter	3	50		Anhinga rufa
Shoebill	1	1		Balaeniceps rex
Black-crowned Night-heron	1		h	Nycticorax nycticorax
Cattle Egret	11	100		Bubulcus ibis
Little Egret	5	35		Egretta garzetta
Common Squacco Heron	4	6		Ardeola ralloides
Green-backed Heron	3	3		Butorides striatus
Great white Egret	3	3		Egretta alba
Grey Heron	5	4		Ardea cinerea
Purple Heron	3	10		Ardea purpurea
Goliath Heron	4	10		Ardea goliath
Black-headed Heron	8	6		Ardea melanocephala
Little Bittern	1	2		Ixobrychus ixobrychus
Hamerkop	11	30		Scopus umbretta
Woolly-necked Stork	2	1		Ciconia episcopus
Saddle-billed Stork	6	4		Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
Marabou Stork	9	50		Leptoptilos crumeniferus
African Open-billed Stork	6	10		Anastomus lamelligerus
Yellow-billed Stork	2	15		Mycteria ibis
Sacred Ibis	4	15		Threskiornis aethiopica
Hadada Ibis	7	30		Bostrychia hagedash
Glossy Ibis	1	2		Plegadis falcinellus
African Spoonbill	2	8		Platalea alba
White-faced Whistling-Duck	2	20		Dendrocygna viduata
Egyptian Goose	4	100		Alopochen aegyptiacus
Bat Hawk	2	2		Macheiramphus alcinus
Palm-nut Vulture	6	3		Gypohierax angolensis
African White-backed Vulture	6	50		Gyps africanus
Ruppell's Vulture	3	5		Gyps ruepelli
Hooded Vulture	5	10		Neophron monachus
Lappet-faced Vulture	1	1		Torgos tracheliotus
White-headed Vulture	2	2		Trigonoceps occipitalis
African Marsh harrier	1	1		Circus ranivorus
African harrier-hawk	4	1		Polyboroides typus
Banded snake Eagle	3	1		Circaetus cinerascens
Brown snake Eagle	4	2		Circaetus cinereus
Bateleur	7	8		Terathopius ecaudatus
Shikra	4	1		Accipiter badius
Little Sparrowhawk	1	1		Accipiter minullus
Great Sparrowhawk	4	1		Accipiter melanoleucus
African Goshawk	3	2		Accipiter tachiro
Tawny Eagle	2	1		Aquila rapax
Wahlberg's Eagle	7	2		Aquila wahlbergi
Augur Buzzard	3	8		Buteo augur
Mountain Buzzard	2	2		Buteo tachardus
Cassin's Hawk Eagle	1	1		Hieraaetus africanus
Lizard Buzzard	6	5		Kaupifalco monogrammicus
Long-crested Eagle	7	4		Lophaetus occipitalis
Dark Chanting Goshawk	4	2		Melierax metabates
African Crowned Eagle	4	2		Stephaioetus coronatus
Martial Eagle	5	2		Polemaetus bellicosus
Western Honey Buzzard	1	1		Pernis apivorus
African Fish Eagle	10	15		Haliaeetus vocifer
Osprey	1	1		Pandion haliaetus
African Cuckoo-hawk	2	1		Aviceda cuculoides
Yellow-billed Kite	9	50		Milvus migrans
Black-shouldered Kite	7	3		Elanus caeruleus
Rock (Common Kestrel)	1	1		Falco (tinnunculus) rupicola
Grey Kestrel	4	4		Falco ardosiaceus
Red-necked Falcon	1	2		Falco chicquera
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