Birdwatching Holiday Kazakhstan Uzbekistan

Central Asia: birding the Silk Road

Wednesday 6 May to Sunday 24 May 2009
with Steve Rooke and Victoria Kovshar as leaders.

Cost: £3270 plus about £670
Single room supplement: £170

Click here for explanation of price breakdown

Maximum group size: 14 with 2 leaders. 2 leaders join this tour regardless of group size.

'My first birding trip that felt more like a real holiday. Steve was a fabulous leader, so professional and extremely entertaining.' V. Davison 2006

'Organisation was excellent. Ground crew and leaders always did their best to add that little bit extra.' P. Wilson 2006

The Silk Road, Samarkand and Bukhara – names that conjure up images of fierce Mongol hordes storming out of the east and of dusty camel trains and crowded bazaars where exotic jewels and oriental spices were traded by travellers from far-off lands. Stretching from the Caspian Sea to the Tien Shan mountains, the Central Asian countries of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan are indeed richly endowed with history and culture, a flavour of which we’ll sample on this exciting tour.

The varied traditions and customs of this fascinating region are matched by a wide variety of habitats. We begin following the Golden Road to Samarkand, an ancient route that leads to the drifting sand dunes of the Kyzyl-Kum desert, where we’ll look for Pander’s Ground Jay, one of the region’s really special birds. Following the ancient Silk Road we’ll find ourselves surrounded by the enormous skies and wormwood-scented breezes of the northern Kazak steppes alive with White-winged and Black Larks and we’ll seek out ancient woodlands where Yellow-eyed Stock Doves and Saxaul Sparrows still breed. Then, turning south, we’ll reach the dramatic splendour of the snow-capped Tien Shan mountains, awash with wild flowers and home to Himalayan Snowcock and Güldenstadt’s Redstart.

Now oil-rich countries in their own right, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan are developing fast but still manage to retain an air of mystery and intrigue guaranteed to fire the imagination. The fantastic birds combined with the rich and unique cultural heritage is sure to present a truly memorable birdwatching experience, which Steve, on his twelth tour to the region, is keen to share with you.

Day 1: The tour begins with a direct flight to Tashkent, the capital of Uzbekistan, arriving in the early morning of Day 2.

Day 2: After arrival we will drive to our very luxurious hotel, superbly located in the wooded Chimgan Hills. Here our introduction to the birds of Central Asia will begin with birds such as Hume’s Lesser Whitethroat, Yellow-breasted and Rufous-naped Tits, and White-capped and Rock Buntings, all of which are common around our hotel, as are Red-rumped Swallows, which nest under our balconies. Overhead there will be a constant procession of Eurasian Griffons, and other raptors could include Honey Buzzard, Hobby or Peregrine Falcon. Night in Chimgan Hills.

Day 3: The calls of numerous Golden Orioles will entice us out for a pre-breakfast walk around the hotel grounds where we may also be able to locate a roosting Tawny Owl or a skulking Hawfinch. After breakfast we will begin our journey along the Silk Road by driving to the fabled city of Samarkand. There will be stops along the way to look at nesting White Storks and Pied and Variable Wheatears, and we should arrive in Samarkand in time to see some of the sights of this remarkable city such as the awesome Registan. Night in Samarkand.

Day 4: To the south of the town lies a range of low hills where we’ll stroll along a delightful valley alive with Red-headed Buntings. White-throated Robins and Eastern Orphean and Upcher’s Warblers breed among the bushes and Hume’s Short-toed Lark feeds among the rocky outcrops. Isabelline and Lesser Grey Shrikes and Eastern Rock Nuthatch also breed along with a few pairs of European Bee-eaters and, with luck, we may encounter a striking Asian Paradise Flycatcher or a Finsch's Wheatear. Those interested in plants or butterflies will find much to occupy them as this sun-drenched spot is a riot of insects and flowers. In the afternoon we’ll return to the city to explore its treasures further, including the massive Bibi Khanum mosque (once the largest in Central Asia) and the local bazaar. Night in Samarkand.

Day 5: After an early morning visit to some local pools where we should see Eastern Olivaceous Warbler and White-crowned Penduline Tit among other species, we continue along the Silk Road to Bukhara, a city even more richly endowed with historic sites than Samarkand. The true splendour of this magical place has to be seen to be believed. The turquoise blue domes, towering minarets and covered bazaars, bustling with numerous shops selling spices, jewellery and famous Bukhara rugs, are guaranteed to transport you back to the days when this was one of the most important cities on the Silk Road. Night in Bukhara.

Day 6: Within easy reach of Bukhara can be found some extensive wetland habitats surrounded by rich desert. Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters are abundant and we are sure to get some wonderful views of these colourful birds as they share the roadside wires with Pied Bushchats and Long-tailed Shrikes. The bushes below are home to the rama race of Booted Warbler, generally considered a separate species, Sykes’s Warbler, as well as Rufous Bush Robins and a few pairs of the shy Ménétries’s Warbler.

At the wetlands we’ll explore reedbeds that are home to Clamorous and Savi’s Warblers as well as the Caspian race of Reed Warbler and Bearded Tit. White-tailed Plovers, all in smart breeding plumage, are common here, and Marbled Duck and Caspian Gulls can usually be found. Flights of Pygmy Cormorants skim the water, Collared Pratincoles nest on the lake shore and Oriental Skylarks sing overhead. Night in Bukhara.

Day 7: In contrast to these rich wetlands we’ll venture deep into the dry Kyzyl-Kum Desert to search for the handsome Pander’s Ground Jay, one of the really special birds of Central Asia. Although birds are not numerous in this landscape, we can also expect to see the local desert race of Little Owl, Streaked Scrub Warbler, and a variety of migrants at small stands of trees. We will return to Bukhara in the afternoon where we'll have time for some more sightseeing or some last minute shopping, and then we'll take an afternoon flight back to Tashkent where we spend the night.

Days 8-9: An early morning flight will take us to Almaty in Kazakhstan and from there we drive east. The scenery in this part of Kazakhstan is truly inspiring with endless desert plains backed by low hills, dramatic gorges and distant snow-capped mountains. These habitats open plains and low hills are home to Lesser Kestrels, Shore Larks, Desert Warblers, Rock Sparrow and hopefully Mongolian and Asian Crimson-winged Finch. Other raptors could include the mighty Saker, now very scarce due to human predation, and Golden, Imperial and Steppe Eagles. We’ll visit a small breeding colony of Himalayan Griffons and are sure to also see some Black Vultures while elsewhere a quiet valley should give us some fine male Pine buntings. Nights camping.

Day 10: Grey-necked Buntings nest right by our camp and further afield we shall visit a small pool for another of the region’s specialities, Pallas’s Sandgrouse, as they come to drink, and visit a breeding colony for Pale Martins before heading back to Almaty and a comfortable hotel for the night.

Days 11-12: Today we travel north into the wild heart of Kazakhstan to spend two nights camping in the Taukum Desert, a vast area of undulating hills and wormwood covered grasslands. We will stop along the way at a small lake where we can marvel at a colony of around 5000 pairs of Rose-coloured Starlings and as we drive north Long-legged Buzzards, European Rollers and Lesser Grey Shrikes will line the roadside wires. We’ll camp by an artesian well that acts as a magnet for local breeding birds as well as numerous migrants. There is a constant stream of larks coming to drink – Calandra and Bimaculated are the most obvious but Greater, Lesser and Asian Short-toed Larks are also frequent visitors. Other birds we can expect include flocks of Black-bellied Sandgrouse and perhaps some of the scarce resident Greater Sand Plovers or handsome Caspian Plovers in full breeding plumage. This open desert is also home to McQueen’s (Houbara) Bustard and we stand a good chance of finding a pair close to our camp. Further north lies the delta of the Ili River, a strange area of sand dunes interspersed with marshy pools and stands of turanga trees, and it is here that some of the region’s very special birds; Yellow-eyed Stock Dove, White-winged Woodpecker, Azure and Turkestan Tits and the beautiful Saxaul Sparrow, are all easy to see. Nights in desert camp.

Day 13: We’ll spend the morning exploring the areas around our camp. Small stands of trees act as magnets for migrants among which we are sure to find Oriental Turtle Doves, Yellow-browed, Barred and Blyth’s Reed Warblers, Black-throated Thushes, and perhaps a Little Crake or the pale sarudnyi race of European Nightjar. Later we’ll drive south to the Tamgaly-Tas petroglyphs, an ancient collection of bizarre rock carvings, where we will search the surrounding hills for Chukars, and Desert Finch before reaching the comfort of our hotel in Almaty. Night in Almaty.

Day 14: We’ll take an early morning flight to Astana, the new thriving capital city and after checking into our hotel we’ll head straight out into the surrounding steppe. Close to the town are rich wetlands alive with clouds of White-winged Black Terns and displaying Marsh Sandpipers, while Paddyfield Warblers, Little Crakes and Great Bitterns creep around the reedbeds and monotone Booted Warblers and showy Bluethroats sing from the bush tops. We’ll visit a lake that holds Slavonian, Black-necked and Red-necked Grebes, White-headed Ducks and Little Gulls as well as a good selection of passage waders.

Day 15: Further out we enter the ancient steppe with its vast grasslands and lakes of fresh and salt water where bird song will fill the air and the sense of space will be exhilarating. We’ll search the grasslands for Dalmatian Pelican, Pallid Harrier, Red-footed Falcon, Demoiselle Crane, Great Black-headed, 'Baraba' and Slender-billed Gulls, a range of waders including breeding Black-winged Pratincoles, Sociable Plovers, hordes of migrant Red-necked Phalaropes, and handsome Ruffs in full breeding plumage. Passerines should include Citrine Wagtail and two splendid larks – White-winged and Black – steppe birds par excellence. After a full day in the steppe we’ll fly back to Almaty in the late evening for one night.

Day 16-17: The beautiful city of Almaty nestles below the dramatic snow-capped backdrop of the Zailiysky Alatau mountains. It is to these mountains that we next travel, climbing steadily through pristine spruce forests. We’ll pause at a lake beautifully located in a deep valley and scan the stony shoreline for Ibisbills which regularly nest here, although our attention will undoubtedly be drawn to the tinkling song and striking plumage of numerous Red-fronted Serins.

Once we clear the tree line we’ll find ourselves in a crystal clear landscape of dense juniper bushes, flower-strewn alpine meadows, and snow-capped peaks. We’ll be staying in the Almaty Astronomical Observatory and after lunch we’ll drive even higher to a breathtaking pass where handsome Güldenstadt’s Redstarts nest and both Red-billed and Alpine Choughs wheel overhead. We’ll also be looking for some of the mighty Lammergeiers and dainty Altai Accentors that inhabit this mountain wilderness.

At these altitudes the weather can be somewhat fickle so we will allow plenty of time to fully explore this wonderful habitat. Our morning will be spent walking through alpine meadows scattered with juniper bushes. As the first rays of sun hit the mountain tops the eerie calls of Himalayan Snowcock will be heard echoing around the valley and careful searching should reveal these impressive birds. The juniper will be alive with the song of Himalayan Rubythroats, Hume’s Leaf Warblers, Brown and Black-throated Accentors, Red-mantled and Common Rosefinches, Plain Mountain Finches, and Spot-winged Grosbeaks. The beautifully marked Severtzov’s Tit-Warbler can also be found in this habitat along with the skulking Sulphur-bellied Warbler. If we have a clear night the Observatory staff will open up one of the large telescopes to allow us to view the moon and other planets. Nights in the Observatory.

Day 18: Today we return to Almaty taking all day to wander down through the dense spruce forest where we should find Nutcracker, Three-toed Woodpecker, Songar Tit, and Eversmann’s and Blue-capped Redstarts, while the numerous mountain streams are home to Blue Whistling Thrush and both Brown and White-bellied Dippers. We’ll end the tour with a traditional Kazak meal at one of Almaty’s fine restaurants. Night in Almaty.

Day 19: We take an early morning flight from Almaty back to London, arriving later the same day.