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India - exotic,
mysterious and intriguing - words that can as equally well be applied
to the birds one finds there as to the country's fascinating history
and culture. It is no surprise therefore that India is an ideal
destination for a Birds and History tour. India has always been
one of our most popular destinations, and for the last fifteen years
we have offered up to three trips to Northern India each winter.
This dual-interest tour has been designed to meet requests to provide
something different and in particular to devote more time to exploring
the history of this fascinating country.
The common denominators
of Agra, the Taj Mahal, and Fatehpur Sikri remain (all 'musts' for
the history buff), as does Bharatpur for its spectacular birdlife.
But instead of heading north for Corbett and Nainital we'll explore the historical wonders of Jodphur, Jaipur,
and Jaisalmer and the very different birdlife of the Thar desert.
To add to the sense of adventure and the experience of 'the real
India' we'll include one journey by rail.
Day
1: The tour begins with a flight from London to Delhi where
we'll spend the night.
Day
2: After an early breakfast we'll set out on our journey, calling
in almost straight away at Okhla dam on the Yamuna River for our
first birds. This area provides a good introduction to many typical
northern India species such as Indian Pond Heron, Black-shouldered
Kite, Common Peafowl, Ring-necked Parakeet, lndian Roller, Black
Drongo, and Common and Bank Mynas. We'll then drive to Agra and
may have time to visit Akbar's tomb as we enter the city, but certainly,
after checking in to our hotel, we'll visit the Red Fort, the second-most
famous site in Agra. Situated up-river from the Taj Mahal this truly
impressive sandstone fort will be a fitting introduction to the
might of the Moghul Emperors. Night in Agra.
Day
3: We'll start the day with an early morning visit to one of
the world's great buildings, the Taj Mahal - 'no mere building but
a love immortalised in marble'. The emperor Shah Jahan promised
his wife, Mumtaz Mahal, that he would build her a tomb that would
for ever remind the world of their great love. Arriving before most
of the crowds, we'll take time to reflect on the sheer beauty of
this stunning building and also to look for Large Green Barbet and
Koel in the grounds, as well as Great Black-headed Gull and River
Lapwing on the adjacent Yamuna River. We'll then drive to
the hotel for breakfast, and probably lunch, after spending the
rest of the morning visiting the marble workshops, jewellers, and
the three-dimensional embroideries for which Agra is famous before
driving to the deserted sandstone city of Fatehpur Sikri. In the
16th century the Emperor Akbar moved his capital here to honour
the mystic Salim Chishti, but the city was soon abandoned and the
new capital became a ghost town. Today it is haunted by memories
of a resplendent era and by Brown Rock Chats and Dusky Crag Martins.
We'll then continue to Bharatpur, maybe in time for some birding
before dinner. Night in Bharatpur.

Days
4-8: We'll stay at the wonderful new Bargh, a custom built guesthouse
located in an ancient mango orchard just outside the famous park
that provides a suitably serene base from which to explore Bharatpur
and the surrounding countryside.
Keoladeo National Park, known simply as Bharatpur, was originally a vast wetland developed for duck shooting. Coaches are not allowed inside the park, so we’ll explore the 29 square kilometres on foot, and by bicycle-rickshaw (peddled by someone else!). Those whose over-riding memories of birdwatching abroad are dusty and bumpy roads and whistle-stop stake-outs will find this a marvellously relaxing time. Nevertheless it will be very rewarding, with the possibility of over 150 species ranging from Sarus Crane to Small Minivet and Ruddy-breasted Crake to White-tailed Eagle. Among the numbers of waterbirds, Black-necked and Painted Storks, Intermediate Egret, Cotton Pygmy-goose and Darter will vie for our attention as we search for less usual species such as Ferruginous and Red-crested Pochards and Greater Painted-snipe.
In the trailside trees we’ll look for Marshall’s Iora, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Common Wood-shrike, Asian Paradise-flycatcher, White-bellied Drongo, Coppersmith Barbet, and Ashy Prinia. Beneath the bushes the slightest movement could herald a Bluethroat or, with luck, an Orange-headed Thrush or Siberian Rubythroat. In the sky above might be Greater Spotted Eagle, Red-headed Vulture or Crested Serpent Eagle. Dusk may bring us Collared Scops-Owl, Dusky Horned-Owl or a nightjar or two.
Note however that Bharatpur is suffering from an acute water shortage and although the actual amount of water in the park varies from year to year, and is largely dependant on the size of the previous summer’s monsoon, the sanctuary has been very dry for most of the 21st century. Because of this we now only spend one full day inside the reserve spending our other full day visiting a bird-thronged, deep water reservoir about two hour’s drive away. Nights at Bharatpur.
Other locations
outside the park, which we sometimes visit, include Ajun Bund and
Bund Barata where we have seen Brown Crake, Indian Courser, Greater
Stone-curlew, Greater Painted-snipe, Plum-headed Parakeet, White-capped
Bunting, and Ashy-crowned Finch-lark.
For our history session, we'll take a private tour
of Deeg Palace, still used by the Maharajah of Bharatpur for official
functions and with all its furniture and fittings intact down to
working punkahs and combined Indian and Western style dining room.
Nowhere else will we sense what life was really like in the day
of the Raj. Nights in Bharatpur.
Day
9: An early start will ensure that we have time for a coffee
break and a search for Yellow-wattled Lapwing on the way and still
reach Jaipur in time for plenty of sightseeing. Jaipur, the capital
of Rajasthan, is built of pink sandstone and was founded in 1727
by the astronomer-king, Sawai Jai Singh II. Our sightseeing will
include the City Palace and Museum, which now contains rare manuscripts,
paintings and an armory; the Observatory, and the Palace of the
Winds. We'll also pause at the Water Palace, surrounded by Marsh
Sandpipers and Black-winged Stilts. However the highlight will be
an elephant-back ride to the top of the Amber Fort, built in the
17th century and a distinguished example of Rajput architecture.
Night in a former palace in Jaipur.
Day
10: Today we transfer to Jodhpur and another palace hotel, set
in bird-rich grounds overlooking the oldest man-made lake in Rajasthan.
En route we'll keep an eye out for Yellow-wattled Lapwing, and should
see thousands of Ruffs at Umaid Bhawan Palace. We'll also
explore the cenotaphs and avifauna of the nearby Mandor Gardens.
Night in Jodhpur.
Day
11: After breakfast we'll depart for Jaisalmer calling in on
the way at Kheechan to witness one of the most unusual avian sights
in Asia. Several years ago this small village established a feeding
station for wintering Demoiselle Cranes and now, every morning and
afternoon, thousands of these graceful birds crowd in to a fenced-off
area to take the grain put out for them. Kheechan is also a good
area to see Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse. Continuing our journey
westwards we'll keep an eye open for Tawny and Spotted Eagles, Long-legged
Buzzard, and Pallid and Montagu's Harriers, which can be numerous
in this part of India. As the day draws to a close, we'll get our
first and never-to-be-forgotten glimpse of Jaisalmer rising from
the golden sands of the Thar Desert. Night in Jaisalmer.
Day
12: We'll begin the day by birdwatching around the outskirts
of the town. The Thar Desert straddles the India-Pakistan border
and many desert birds on the eastern edge of their range can be
found here. At the man-made lake just outside the town we could
see Chestnut-bellied and Black-bellied Sandgrouse coming to drink
in the early morning. In the adjacent desert we'll search for Laggar
Falcon, Cream-coloured Courser, Desert Warbler, Isabelline, Variable
and Red-tailed Wheatears, Trumpeter Finch, and House Bunting. Although
not particularly stunning to look at, the little-known Plain Leaf
Warbler winters in this area and can sometimes be found flitting
around the tall acacia trees. In the afternoon we'll explore the
city, wandering its cool narrow streets, admiring its ancient buildings,
and perhaps haggling with some local trader over the price of a
rug or some local silverwork. Night in Jaisalmer.
Day
13: Providing we can obtain permission from the local authorities,
we'll make a full day visit to the Desert National Park close to
the border with Pakistan, leaving very early in order to arrive
at the park for dawn. Established in 1980, the park covers 3,100
square kilometres. Some of the area is a classic desert of rolling
sand dunes, with patchy scrub, trees and flowers, while other places
are covered in sparse stony grassland. Animals to be seen include
Chinkara, Wolf, Desert Fox, Indian Hare, and Desert Cat. The park
is one of the strongholds of the Great Indian Bustard and a sighting
of this magnificent bird would be the highlight of the day. We'll
also look for the smaller Macqueen's Bustard, Spotted Sandgrouse,
Bimaculated, Hoopoe and Short-toed Larks, Black-crowned Finch-Lark,
Desert Wheatear, Isabelline Shrike, and Spanish Sparrow. Stoliczka's
Bushchat, another little-known species, regularly winters in this
area and we'll keep a sharp eye open for this desirable species.
Night in Jaisalmer.
Day
14: This morning we'll drive back to Jodhpur, which stands on
a range of sandstone hills surrounded by a wall nearly ten kilometres
in length with a total of seven gates. Dominating the city is an
eminence surmounted by a massive fortress (1459 AD). The walls of
this rise up from a rocky base that made the fortress well nigh
impregnable. Within the walls can be found royal palaces, priceless
jewels, a striking collection of arms, and a breeding colony of
Indian Long-billed Vultures. Our tour of Jodhpur includes visits
to the fort, palaces, armory, and Jaswant Tara. Night in Jodhpur.
Day
15: The area around Jodphur is inhabited by the Bishnoi people.
This community has developed a remarkable affinity with nature which
results in the birds and animals being even more approachable than
they are in the rest of India and this is an excellent place to
see the handsome and rare Blackbuck. Some of these protected areas
are ideal for birds and we'll search here for White-eyed Buzzard,
White-bellied Minivet, Tawny and Long-billed Pipits, and Booted
Warbler, among many others. The area has also produced a few records
of White-winged Black Tit, a rare local endemic which we'll be very
lucky to see. We'll also have time to visit the fascinating bazaar
before we take the overnight sleeper train to Delhi.
Day
16: Believed to be the Inderprastha described in the epic Mahabharat,
Delhi has been the seat of power for a number of dynasties and the
old city, built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century, stands today
as the epitome of the whole history of Indo-Islamic architecture.
New Delhi, designed and constructed by Sir Edwin Lutyens and Sir
Herbert Baker is a mixture of East and West. Our city tour
will visit the Red Fort, the Friday Mosque, Gandhi's memorial, Humayun's
Tomb surrounded by newly-restored Persian gardens, and the Qutb
Minar, 72 metres high and one of the most perfect of Persian towers.
After dinner in an airport hotel we'll catch an overnight flight
to London, arriving there on the morning of Day 17.
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'
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Last updated May 2008. |
After leaving Delhi, we visit perhaps the most famous building in the world, the Taj Mahal at Agra.
From there it is a short drive to the wildlife sanctuary of Bharatpur.

Walking the quiet trails we may find a sleepy Collared Scops Owl.

Or a roosting Large-tailed Nightjar.

Eventually the woodland gives way to vast open jheels, thronged with birds.
Where Painted Storks nest on the many small islands.

And where birds like this Purple Heron....
and Purple Swamphens can be very tame.

During the tour we stay in a variety of luxurious palaces, now coverted to hotels.
On the
way to Jaiselmer we call in Keechan to see dainty Demoiselle Cranes.
Which travel from their breeding grounds in Central Asia every winter to gather in their thousands.
Photos by Bryan Bland, Dan Brown and Paul Holt
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