“Snow, snow, snow! That was what greeted us as we landed on time at Warsaw airport. Although well aware of the recent wintry weather it was obvious from our final approach just how much snow had fallen in the few days prior to our arrival. This was to be the theme for the whole trip - breathtaking scenery and deep snow making a spectacular backdrop to the towns and villages nearby.
Combine that with steaming hot Borsch soup (containing peas, beans, beetroot, potatoes and sometimes even a whole boiled egg) served most days alongside traditional main dishes, and followed by coffee and vodka, really helped to keep us warm.
And the birds and mammals? Well, our tour began within the mighty Bialowieza Forest. Time spent here produced wonderful views of White-backed, Middle Spotted, and Three-toed Woodpeckers, with Pygmy Owl also ranking in the quality stakes - its presence given away by the plaintive ‘pew’ of its contact call as it gradually moved closer to us. The real star of the show as always though was the forest itself; a true testament to managing forests naturally. The mammals we encountered here included all-too-brief views of three Wild Boar scampering along the forest edge - we just wished they’d have lingered a little longer. We also enjoyed wonderful telescope views of Red Deer feeding - quite unconcerned by our presence during an early morning walk.
When we ventured out into the forest the following day, just after first light, we suddenly stopped in our tracks as we spotted a group of eight European Bison feeding in the deep snow. They gave superb views in the cold blueness of early morning – their size and bulk blending in perfectly with the massive trees around them. Other mammals seen later in the day included two Otters and a Mink fishing around the small patch of broken ice on the huge but mainly solidly frozen Siemianowka Lake.
Our journey from north to south was slow but enjoyable with some interesting coffee stops and superb bird sightings en route - the first of which was an impressive Rough-legged Buzzard soaring over the River Bug. Here, too, Goosander and Goldeneye fed in the free flowing water while attempting to dodge the huge lumps of ice floating along its surface. However, it wasn’t long before we were able to soak up the night-time culture of the historic town of Zamosc.
The following morning was spent birding the surrounding area which included a visit to a winter roost of Pipistrelle Bats within a former World War 1 bunker. We also stopped en route to observe an overwintering Great Grey Shrike which had taken up residence only a few kilometres from our local guide’s house. Heading south again we stopped to enjoy a wonderful lunch specially prepared for us in Przemysl. We were treated to the regional speciality of Ukranian Borsch. Afterwards a visit to some nearby allotments gave the group excellent views of a Syrian Woodpecker perched out on an exposed branch. Nearby at the River San we were fortunate to watch an adult male Goshawk perched out in the open close to the riverbank, all this while large blocks of ice cruised downriver.
A stroll in the area surrounding our next hotel produced a few inquisitive Nutcrackers, constantly squabbling with the local Jays. The views of displaying Common Crossbill just outside our hotel were good value too, with several birds observed singing and defending territories. That evening we ventured out into the Carpathian Mountains and, as dusk fell, the views we enjoyed of one particular Ural Owl were quite magical. This area is the species stronghold in Poland, and up to three more birds were heard giving their haunting call. Not surprisingly, Ural Owl was voted bird of the trip. We also enjoyed excellent views of Grey-headed Woodpecker at this site – it followed us around for over an hour! As we walked along the snow-covered mountain trails we came upon fresh Wolf tracks. It soon became obvious just how close we were to these secretive mammals but, unfortunately, a sighting eluded us.
On our penultimate day we visited a large retention lake en route to Krakow. Here we were surprised to see three female Smew associating with a large Goldeneye flock.
Our last night of the tour was spent in the former medieval capital of Poland, Krakow. During the evening we were treated to authentic cuisine and good wine at a local restaurant whilst listening to local Yiddish musicians. Our final morning was spent crunching through the fresh snow in the city park where a Short-toed Treecreeper sang a few feet above our heads, and reminded us that spring is on its way.” Stuart Elsom.
Bird List:
Column 1 = number of days recorded
Column 2 = greatest daily count
H = heard only
|
White Stork |
1 |
4 |
|
Ciconia ciconia |
|
Mute Swan |
1 |
100 |
|
Cygnus olor |
|
Teal |
1 |
4 |
|
Anas crecca |
|
Mallard |
4 |
200 |
|
Anas platyrhynchos |
|
Pochard |
1 |
5 |
|
Anas ferina |
|
Tufted Duck |
1 |
8 |
|
Aythya fuligula |
|
Goldeneye |
3 |
50 |
|
Bucephala clangula |
|
Smew |
1 |
3 |
|
Mergellus albellus |
|
Goosander |
2 |
6 |
|
Mergus merganser |
|
Goshawk |
1 |
1 |
|
Accipiter gentilis |
|
Sparrowhawk |
1 |
2 |
|
Accipiter nisus |
|
Common Buzzard |
7 |
10 |
|
Buteo buteo |
|
Rough-legged Buzzard |
1 |
1 |
|
Buteo lagopus |
|
Kestrel |
1 |
1 |
|
Falco tinnunculus |
|
Grey Partridge |
1 |
20 |
|
Perdix perdix |
|
Pheasant |
1 |
1 |
|
Phasianus colchicus |
|
Coot |
1 |
100 |
|
Fulica atra |
|
Black-headed Gull
|
2 |
100 |
|
Larus ridibundus |
|
Common Gull |
1 |
10 |
|
Larus canus |
|
Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon
|
2 |
‘00s |
|
Columba livia |
|
Collared Dove |
2 |
2 |
|
Streptopelia decaocto |
|
Pygmy Owl |
1 |
1 |
|
Glaucidium passerinum |
|
Ural Owl |
1 |
4 |
|
Strix uralensis |
|
Long-eared Owl |
1 |
1 |
|
Asio otus |
|
Grey-headed Woodpecker
|
1 |
1 |
|
Picus canus |
|
Green Woodpecker |
1 |
1 |
|
Picus viridis |
|
Black Woodpecker |
1 |
1 |
H |
Dryocopus martius |
|
Great Spotted Woodpecker
|
7 |
5 |
|
Dendrocopos major |
|
Syrian Woodpecker
|
1 |
1 |
|
Dendrocopos syriacus |
|
Middle Spotted Woodpecker |
2 |
3 |
|
Dendrocopos medius |
|
White-backed Woodpecker
|
1 |
2 |
|
Dendrocopos leucotos |
|
Three-toed Woodpecker
|
1 |
2 |
|
Picoides tridactylus |
|
Blackbird |
4 |
10 |
|
Turdus merula |
|
Fieldfare |
4 |
‘00s |
|
Turdus pilaris |
|
Mistle Thrush |
2 |
3 |
|
Turdus viscivorus |
|
Goldcrest |
1 |
1 |
|
Regulus regulus |
|
Marsh Tit |
4 |
4 |
|
Parus palustris |
|
Willow Tit |
2 |
4 |
|
Parus montanus |
|
Crested Tit |
3 |
2 |
|
Parus cristatus |
|
Coal Tit |
4 |
6 |
|
Parus ater |
|
Blue Tit |
3 |
3 |
|
Parus caeruleus |
|
Great Tit |
7 |
10 |
|
Parus major |
|
Nuthatch |
5 |
4 |
|
Sitta europaea |
|
Treecreeper |
3 |
4 |
|
Certhia familiaris |
|
Short-toed Treecreeper
|
1 |
1 |
|
Certhia brachydactyla |
|
Great Grey Shrike
|
1 |
1 |
|
Lanius excubitor |
|
Jay |
6 |
10 |
|
Garrulus glandarius |
|
Magpie |
6 |
30 |
|
Pica pica |
|
Nutcracker |
1 |
4 |
|
Nucifraga caryocatactes |
|
Jackdaw |
5 |
‘000s |
|
Corvus monedula |
|
Rook |
5 |
‘000s |
|
Corvus frugilegus |
|
Hooded Crow |
6 |
‘00s |
|
Corvus cornix |
|
Raven |
7 |
20 |
|
Corvus corax |
|
House Sparrow |
4 |
25 |
|
Passer domesticus |
|
Tree Sparrow |
2 |
30 |
|
Passer montanus |
|
Chaffinch |
1 |
1 |
|
Fringilla coelebs |
|
Lesser Redpoll |
1 |
1 |
|
Carduelis cabaret |
|
Greenfinch |
3 |
2 |
|
Carduelis chloris |
|
Goldfinch |
1 |
1 |
|
Carduelis carduelis |
|
Siskin |
6 |
‘00s |
|
Carduelis spinus |
|
Crossbill |
3 |
12 |
|
Loxia curvirostra |
|
Bullfinch |
6 |
5 |
|
Pyrrhula pyrrhula |
|
Hawfinch |
3 |
4 |
|
Coccothraustes coccothraustes |
|
Yellowhammer |
4 |
100 |
|
Emberiza citrinella |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Mammals: |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Common Pipistrelle |
1 |
20 |
|
Pipistrellus pipistrellus |
|
Brown Hare |
1 |
1 |
|
Lepus europeus |
|
Wolf |
1 |
|
Track |
Canis lupus |
|
Mink sp. |
1 |
1 |
|
Mustela lutreola / vison |
|
Otter |
2 |
1 |
|
Lutra lutra |
|
Wild Boar |
1 |
3 |
|
Sus scrofa |
|
Bison |
1 |
8 |
|
Bison bonasus |
|
Roe Deer |
6 |
13 |
|
Capreolus capreolus |
|
Red Deer |
1 |
5 |
|
Cervus elaphus |