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Nearly 20 years ago, when the Velvet Revolution first made it possible to explore eastern Europe, Bryan discovered Levoca and even then (before all the renovation and repainting which has taken place recently) considered it the most attractive historic town in Slovakia, its main square dominated by exquisite Gothic and Renaissance architecture.
For many years our April birds–and-bears tour lunched there and we took time out to admire the magnificent carved Gothic altars of Master Paul of Levoca. It is therefore very exciting that, starting in September 2008, it became the host for a new music event - The Indian Summer International Music Festival - and the basis for a wonderful new birds-and-music tour.
In 2010 the Festival begins on 1 October and the programming, which takes note of the bicentenaries of Schumann and Chopin, is particularly exciting. Cellist Julian Lloyd-Webber is joined by two of the most remarkable younger-generation pianists, Jonathan Powell and the Czech Ivo Kahanák (who recently made his memorable Prom debut), the award-winning Slovak Cellist Jozef Lupták, the Stamic Quartet, and the Slovak Sinfonietta.
In addition to five nights in Levoca we shall spend two near the Ukranian border to enjoy an evening of folk music in a wine cellar. And the cultural side of our visit will also include visits to such UNESCO World Heritage Sites as Spissky castle, Spisska Kapitula abbey, and Zehra church with its 14th-and 15th-century frescoes.
Our birding will take us around the woodland-cloaked hills surrounding our base of Levoca, with its Hazel Hens, woodpeckers and owls, to the alpine-like habitats of the High Tatras. Beyond lies more open country with its plentiful birds of prey and migrating passerines, and we begin at the fabulous wetland of the Senné which should be alive with all manner of waterbirds.
Day 1: The tour begins with a flight to Krakow in Poland. From there we drive across the High Tatra mountains into Slovakia on the ancient trade route to the Spiss region and beyond. Enroute to Michalovce, as the landscape opens out, we should see our first open-country birds on migration – such as Red-backed Shrike and Whinchat – but we shall concentrate on the region’s large population of raptors, hoping in particular for Imperial Eagle and Saker Falcon. We’ll also be on the lookout for other species, such as Black Stork. We expect to arrive at our hotel in the early evening, having stopped for dinner on the way. Night near Michalovce.
Day 2: Adjacent to our hotel are the Vihorlat hills, a rolling landscape of broad-leaved forests where we’ll search for woodland birds: woodpecker species such as Middle Spotted and White-backed and the magnificent Ural Owl. South of Michalovce the relief flattens into extensive cultivated plains. Here we’ll concentrate on the working fish ponds and overgrown lakes at Senné, which have created an outstanding wetland site. The varying water levels and extensive phragmites reedbeds at this site offer attractive habitats to a host of passage and breeding birds, including Penduline Tit and Bearded Tit. The lakes provide rest for Great White Egrets, Purple Herons, Spoonbills, occasionally Pygmy Cormorants, and a variety of waders temporarily resting before they leave for the south. A wide selection of ducks is also found together with several breeding wader species. The elusive Bittern is sometimes surprisingly easy to see at Senné and small flocks of Cranes should cross the skies as well as a White-tailed Eagle or Osprey. First winter guests from the north could be already present including Rough-legged Buzzard, Merlin, or Hen Harrier and we hope to finish the day with a trip to a local quarry, a regular roosting spot for Eagle Owl. In the evening we shall enjoy wine tasting to the accompaniment of folk music. Night near Michalovce.
Day 3: We'll start with a walk around a large park in the town of Michalovce. This lightly wooded area offers a last chance for such sought-after species as Syrian, Middle Spotted, and Grey-headed Woodpeckers. Later we'll drive to Levoca where, after a restaurant lunch, we shall stroll around the town and visit St James’s church to view Master Paul’s altars. In the evening we shall attend the opening concert in the historic rococo theatre, built in 1830, which will be followed by supper. (Stamic Quartet: Dvorák op 34, Ives no.1, Schumann no.3). Night in Levoca.

Days 4-5: Based in this attractive little town, our first two full days will be spent combining birding and concert-going with history and culture, visiting such UNESCO World Heritage Sites as Spisska Kapitula abbey, Spissky castle, and Zehra church with its 14th and 15th century frescoes. During the mornings we shall also explore Levocske hills, Prešov and the surrounding countryside for a variety of birds. Early October is a good season for Hazel Hen and the local forests are home to several dozen of them, including at this time of year, young, and rather vocal males. Nutcracker will be another target bird as they roam around in search of food and we shall devote some time looking for Pygmy and Tengmalm’s Owls. Other species likely to be encountered are Golden Eagle, Crossbill, Northern Grey Shrike and, with luck, Three-toed and Black Woodpeckers and maybe a late Lesser Spotted Eagle. Amongst the more common species which abound in the forests around Levoca are Hawfinch, Lesser Spotted Woodpecker, Tree Sparrow, various tits, and winter visitors such as Brambling and Waxwing. Our afternoons and evenings will be spent at concerts in the old theatre and the congress hall. (Two on Saturday - an afternoon lieder recital including Schumann, Chopin, Liszt, Dvorák and in the evening the Stamic Quartet with Ivo Kahanák piano recital including Schumann Kreisleriana and in the evening Josef Lupták and ensemble). Nights in Levoca.
Day 6: An early start (probably with a picnic breakfast) will allow us to spend a full day in the High Tatras, hopefully taking a cabin lift to 5000ft to search for Alpine Accentor and Water Pipit. After a restaurant lunch we shall enjoy more afternoon and evening concerts followed by supper at the hotel. (Jonathan Powell piano recital including Scriabin, Rachmaninoff, Suchon; Julian Lloyd-Webber cello recital including Debussey and Delius). Night in Levoca.
Day 7: A full day’s birding (this time in the Slovak Paradise) will allow us to continue searching for any species which have so far eluded us before we find ourselves in the congress hall for our final concert. (Slovak Sinfonietta with Julian Lloyd-Webber including Schumann and Fauré). Night in Levoca.
Day 8: We leave Levoca and drive back across the border to Krakow airport to catch our flight back to London where the tour ends.
Information about the
Levoca Summer Music Festival can be found by clicking on their website link here: http://www.lblfestival.eu/
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Last updated February 2010
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Hazel Hen can be surprisingly easy to see at this time of year

Early winter visitors may include the first Waxwings

While resident species we hope to find include Ural Owl...

and the magnificent Eagle Owl

The woods around Levoca hold a variety of woodpeckers, including White-backed Woodpecker....

and Black Woodpecker

And there should be a few Lesser Spotted Eagles still present |